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Had Churchill prevailed, they would have stayed that way.Tellingly though, the dominant one — the Cloth Hall, which ranked among the world’s largest commercial buildings in medieval times — is devoted to the In Flanders Fields Museum .Grand public buildings represent a compendium of architectural styles from Romanesque to Renaissance, while classic step-gabled residences, many converted into cafés or shops, provide an intimate counterpoint.Maybe it was the unseasonable chill, maybe the residual effect of some old, collective ache. Touring Belgium’s westernmost corner as the centenary of World War I approached, I could feel it in my bones.After perusing the exhibits, get the lay of the land by climbing the Cloth Hall’s 70-metre-tall belfry for views over the entire Ypres Salient.When you look closer, however, battle scars are apparent — and not only because 150-plus military cemeteries and memorials dot the area.Ground zero, of course, is Ieper , which rhymes with “deeper,” but is better known to most of us from our school days by its French name, Ypres.The overall effect is so pretty you almost expect rotund, red-faced burghers to step out of a Golden Age canvas and onto the cobbled square.Strolling around its Grote Markt, you could again be forgiven for thinking that Ieper had been untouched.

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